The three Paione lakes in Val Bognanco: steps of water below Pizzo del Paione

Three lakes stacked like steps: Lower, Middle and Upper. Val Bognanco is the quietest valley in Ossola and the Paione lakes are its signature walk, the one people repeat every autumn once they have done it.

The route

We start from San Bernardo, at the end of the road, and climb a well-marked trail through larches and rhododendrons. The first lake comes after a good hour and a half; from there we climb step by step to the Upper Lake at 2,270 m, with Pizzo del Paione behind it.

Lunch on the rocks by the upper lake, then back down the same trail, unhurried.

Who it's for

• anyone who wants real alpine lakes, not a pond by the road
• anyone fit for 800 m of climbing
• anyone after larch colours in early October

Good to know

Above 2,000 m the season ends early: the guide confirms the week before and with snow we pick a lower destination. Packed lunch, there are no huts on the route.

Getting there

San Bernardo di Bognanco is an hour and forty-five from Milan: A26 and expressway to Domodossola, then the Val Bognanco road to its end. Free parking where the road ends. Car pooling in the outing's Telegram group.