Alpe Veglia in autumn: the larch loop from San Domenico di Varzo

Alpe Veglia is Devero's quiet sister: the same basin of larches and peat bogs, the same stone huts, but no road reaches it. You walk in, and in October the larches below Monte Leone turn into a patch of gold you can see from miles away.

The route

We start from San Domenico di Varzo and drop to Ponte Campo, where the mule track starts climbing through the woods along the Cairasca stream. In an hour and a half we leave the trees and the whole basin opens at once: the meadows of Cornù, the huts of Isola, Monte Leone closing the horizon.

We loop around the plain, with lunch on the meadows or by the little church, and return along the same mule track with the afternoon light setting the larches alight.

Who it's for

• anyone who loves Devero but wants fewer people
• anyone after high-altitude larch colours without technical ground
• anyone happy to walk four or five hours at a good pace

Good to know

The Città di Arona hut closes at the end of September: bring a packed lunch. The guide confirms the week before depending on snow. Car pooling in the outing's Telegram group.

Getting there

San Domenico di Varzo is two hours from Milan: A26 motorway to Gravellona Toce, expressway to Domodossola, Varzo exit and then the Val Cairasca road up to the car park. Paid parking in season. Car pooling in the outing's Telegram group.